1. Principle The color jacquard pattern produced by the […]
The color jacquard pattern produced by the jacquard process has the following disadvantages.
①Because the color yarn that does not appear on the front side needs to knit an extra course on the back side of the fabric, the weight of the fabric is heavier. Even if it is a single jacquard weave, the floating thread on the back side of the fabric will increase the weight of the fabric.
② The color blocks of the jacquard pattern are not completely monochromatic, but are mixed with other colors of loops or floating lines. The intarsia pattern process is based on the principle: the yarn guide of each color yarn only lays the yarn in its own color area, and when the layup in the area is over, the yarn guide is left until the next course head returns Then drive the knitting. At the edge of the next color zone, another yarn guide continues to weave the course.
In the past more complicated special flat knitting machines, in order to produce a complete course, various yarn guides are required, and the H must be equipped with the following additional mechanisms.
①Special yarn guide, this kind of yarn guide has a certain point between two adjacent needles.
②Adjust after increasing the number of yarn guides participating in the work to ensure accurate positioning of the yarn guides. It also requires a large number of positioning graves, and these positioning blocks need to be refined
③According to the color pattern, the position of the color block on each module is changed, so the position of the positioning block in each course also needs to be changed, so the intarsia machine also needs to be equipped with a system to make the positioning block finish knitting in each course Can move on shuttle k afterwards.
The computer-controlled thread guide pin can drive or lower each thread guide at any place of the knitting width without the need for a special positioning block.
The advanced software stores the working position of each yarn guide, so that the yarn guide can be re-driven in the next course. In addition, the computer-controlled movement of the machine head and the combination of intarsia principles with other jacquard techniques enable designers to apply intarsia to new three-dimensional patterns.
2. Simple intarsia
Compared with jacquard, the formation process of intarsia weave requires more weaving techniques, and they must be carefully combined to produce the desired result. Even if it is to produce a simple three-color intarsia pattern as shown in Figure 10-57, the following elements must be involved; the basic weaving structure of the garment; the connection organization between the two color blocks; the coordination between the head system and the pattern; The arrangement of the yarn guides on the school bar; the movement and stop of each yarn guide at the beginning and end of the color block, the computer controls the movement of each yarn guide, the pattern diagram and the color area; used for the nose triangle System knitting instructions.
The following describes the elements of intarsia weaving.
1. Local organizational structure
The intarsia pattern can be produced in any kind of weaving structure, such as plain stitch, rib or double reverse weave. The simplest and most commonly used of these weaves is the plain weave, which is produced when only the front needle bed needles participate in the knitting, so the fabric is lighter in weight.
2. Connection between color blocks
When one yarn guide knits a group of needle cushion yarns, and another yarn guide continues to lay yarns with an adjacent group of needles, the wales on the edges of each color block cannot be connected to each other, so the knitted fabric is divided into several Piece. In order to connect the last wale of a color block with the first wale of the next color block, the yarns of the two color blocks must form a loop or group structure on the same needle between the two color blocks to form Connect the organization.
cMs can automatically form the required connection structure, without the need for complicated allocation of various needles for each row of the pattern on the pattern diagram. Using the INTs before the knitting instruction: A-o, it means that one of the two sides of a certain group of color blocks is knitting for both color yarns, thereby forming a connection structure as shown in Figure 10-58.
Using the group to connect the color blocks can make the edges of the color blocks on the front of the fabric clearer. At this time, the knitting instruction should be changed to INTS: %A—O; as shown in solid 10-59. The "O" in the two commands means that only the front stitch is knit in the plain stitch. When other fabric structures such as rib weaves are used, the above instructions can be changed to include an automatic connection to the rear needle bed. Of course, it is also possible to connect the machine to one side of the color block with a group, and in the other case use a hard connection. In this case, the knitting program on each side of the color block should be designed separately. For example, the left side is designed as Ibding sL: A—o, and the right side is Ibm: %A—o.