★Stitching process We know that woolen sweater parts ca […]
We know that woolen sweater parts can be knitted by flat knitting machines, or they can be cut by circular knitting machines. But no matter what method is woven into the garment pieces, they must go through the process of stitching to form a woolen sweater with wearing value. This process is also called ready-to-wear, that is, the front and back of the sweater , Sleeves, collars, plackets and other separate pieces and accessories are connected with stitches to form a sweater. The quality of stitching directly affects the quality of the sweater. It not only affects the wearing performance of the sweater, but also plays an important role in reflecting the style and appearance of the product. Therefore, the stitches used should match the pieces to be sewn, the stitches should be flat and can reflect the style characteristics, and the stitches should have sufficient fastness.
Under the humid and hot conditions, the fiber assembly gradually shrinks tightly through the repeated action of mechanical external force, and intersperses and entangles each other, and is interwoven and felted. This property is called the milling of wool fibers. The process of using this feature to process woolen sweaters is called woolen sweater milling. The main purpose of woolen sweater felting is to improve and enhance the inherent quality of woolen sweater products (to make the fabric tighter, stronger, more elastic and warm) and appearance effects (beautiful in appearance, rich and soft in hand, and soft in color).
Ironing is the last process of finishing woolen sweaters, which is what we usually call woolen sweater shaping. It is also an important link that affects quality. The purpose of ironing is to make woolen sweaters with long-lasting and stable standard specifications; beautiful appearance, smooth surface, gloss, full suede, soft hand feeling, and full of elasticity. The ironing of sweaters includes four parts: heating, dampening, pressurizing and cooling. The ironing process is related to the raw materials of woolen sweaters. Different raw materials should adopt different processes. Generally, ironing can be divided into three categories: steaming, ironing and baking.
Factors affecting pilling
The influence of the yarn: the more crimped the fiber is, the fiber is not easy to stretch when twisting, and the fiber is easy to loosen and slip during the friction process, forming hair on the surface of the yarn. For this reason, the better the fiber crimp, the easier it is to pilling. The thinner the fiber, the more fiber ends exposed on the surface of the yarn, and the better the fiber flexibility. Therefore, the thin fiber is easier to entangle and pilling than the thick fiber. In terms of fiber length, shorter fibers are easier to fluff and pilling than long fibers. In addition to the influence of the number of fiber ends, the friction and cohesion between the long fibers are large, and the fibers are difficult to slip to the surface of the fabric and are difficult to entangle. Pilling. The twist and surface smoothness of the yarn also have a great influence on pilling. The yarn with high twist has tight inter-fiber cohesion. When the yarn is rubbed, the fiber slips from the yarn relatively less, and the pilling phenomenon is reduced; However, woolen sweaters are soft fabrics, too high twist will make the fabric hard, so it is impossible to increase the twist to prevent pilling. The effect of yarn smoothness, the smoother the yarn, the shorter and less hairy surface, so the smooth yarn is not easy to pilling.
The influence of fabric structure: The fabric with loose fabric structure is easier to fuzz and pilling than the fabric with tight structure. High-gauge fabrics are generally compact, so low-gauge fabrics are easier to fuzz and pilling than high-gauge fabrics. The fabric with a flat surface is not easy to fuzz and pilling, and the fabric with an uneven surface is easy to fuzz and pilling. Therefore, the pilling resistance of fat floral fabrics, ordinary floral fabrics, rib fabrics, and plain knitted fabrics is gradually increasing.
Influence of dyeing and finishing process: After dyeing and finishing of yarn or fabric, the anti-pilling property will have a greater impact. This is related to dyes, auxiliaries, and dyeing and finishing process conditions. Dyed or top dyed yarns are easy to pilling; fabrics dyed in shirts are easier to pilling than fabrics woven with yarn dyeing; after the fabric is shaped, especially after resin finishing, its anti-pilling performance will be greatly enhanced.
The influence of wearing conditions: When the woolen sweater fabric is worn, the greater the friction and the more the friction, the more serious the pilling phenomenon.
Anti-pilling finishing method and process
Wool sweaters are formed products, and it is difficult to prevent pilling by singeing or shearing. The commonly used anti-pilling finishing processes mainly include light milling and resin finishing. The resin finishing method is more effective.
Scale is a main feature of wool fiber. It gives the wool fiber a milling property. Therefore, the essence of shrink-proof finishing is to treat the scale to weaken or lose the directional friction effect. Mainly use chemicals to interact with the scales to damage and soften the scales; or use the resin to spread evenly on the fiber surface to form a film. Thereby, the effect of scales is effectively limited, the wool fiber loses the milling property, and the purpose of shrink-proof is achieved.
In the process of storage, woolen sweaters are often moth-eaten. If the moths cannot survive on the fabric, they can achieve the purpose of mothproofing. This is the task of mothproof finishing. The auxiliaries used in mothproof finishing should be efficient and low-toxic, have no side effects on the human body, do not affect the color and color fastness of the fabric, do not damage the woolen feel and strength of the wool fiber, and have the characteristics of washing, light and long-lasting. Commonly used anti-moth finishing methods include chemical modification of wool and anti-moth finishing.